PLANT PROTECTION COVERS

If you’ve ever looked at a favorite plant in spring and thought, “No way, it can’t be frost-damaged… why did this happen?”, then you know the feeling. Winter does what winter does. But the truth is, this could have been avoided — because it doesn’t take much to help plants stay alive, healthy and ready for the next spring.
One of the most reliable solutions is winter protection covers made of horticultural fleece.

They’re not magic — but they work. And they work really well.

WHAT ARE THEY FOR?
The covers are used to protect sensitive plants from:
– frost and sudden temperature drops
– drying winds (especially dangerous for evergreens!)
– ice and wet snow
– early spring sunburn
– damage caused by animals or birds

In short: they help plants not just “survive,” but make it through winter with dignity.

WHICH PLANTS SHOULD BE COVERED?
– young arborvitae (thuja) and other sensitive conifers
– heat-loving ornamentals (e.g., buddleia, lavender, some hydrangeas)
– newly planted shrubs or trees that don’t yet have a strong root system
– plants growing in containers or pots

WHEN AND HOW TO COVER PROPERLY?
The best time is when night temperatures regularly drop below freezing — usually in November.
Don’t cover too early: plants need to feel the first frosts, which signal them to enter winter dormancy.
Very frost-sensitive plants, such as roses, hydrangeas, heathers, young fruit trees or tender ornamentals, should be protected before stronger frosts are forecast — but not when the ground is already deeply frozen.
The cover shouldn’t be too tight; roots and stems shouldn’t be pressed or squeezed.
Plants must breathe. Winter fleece allows air circulation and reduces moisture buildup.
Secure the cover well. Wind is the biggest “thief.” Use a drawstring or cord at the base.
In spring, remove the cover gradually so the plant can adjust to the increasing sunlight naturally.

COMMON MISTAKES
– covering too early (the plant “overheats” and starts growing)
– using polyethylene or another non-breathable material
– wrapping the trunk too tightly
– forgetting to protect the root zone (especially important for rhododendrons, hydrangeas, young arborvitae)

PRACTICAL TIPS
If you’re unsure WHETHER YOU SHOULD cover — just do it. A single cover costs far less than a lost plant.
If the plant is new or weaker — the protection acts like a warm coat.

WHEN TO REMOVE
When spring days consistently reach +5–8 °C and the risk of night frosts decreases.
For evergreens — remove gradually over two to three days. Don’t rush; early spring sun can sometimes do more harm than frost.

In short — LITTLE EFFORT, BIG BENEFITS.